An Art Nouveau masterpiece by René Lalique, the 1897 Iris bracelet is composed of opals, enamel and gold. Photo Andrew Werner
Jewelry News
Andrew Werner’s Photo Diary of the Winter Show
See the array of designs he captured at the annual event
February 1, 2025—For the past three years while I have been in Los Angeles during Awards Season, Andrew Werner has ventured to The Winter Show back home in New York City to assemble a photo diary for The Adventurine.
Every time we plan this, the ever-polite photographer asks me, “Is there anything in particular you want me to focus on?” And I say, “No, just photograph whatever moves you.”
This mellow approach is not usually my way. I am not a laid-back Californian. I am an overcaffeinated New Yorker. Beyond this story, I always have a vision, parameters around it and a path on how to get it done. But this piece is different.
I adore seeing what captures Andrew’s eye as a photographer with a passion for jewelry. I marvel at the way he styles the pieces on site at The Park Avenue Armory. And I am always fascinated by what he chooses. His photos arrive like a surprise gift.
See the images below and find out some details about the designs from A La Vieille Russie, James Robinson, Koopman Rare Art , Les Enluminures, Macklowe Gallery, Simon Teakle and Wartski who were among the art, decorative arts and jewelry exhibitors at The Winter Show, which is open through this weekend.
From A La Vieille Russie: Raymond C. Yard ruby and diamond cherry brooch made around 1950.
From A La Vieille Russie: Art Deco rock crystal brooch set with diamonds and natural pearls in platinum
“This is not meant to be styled like a race car, but when I put it down to set up lighting, that’s immediately what I saw,” Andrew explained. And it’s true, the modernity of the design suggests a vehicle, which was a big shift in jewelry from the flowers, bows and ribbons found on designs from the era preceding Deco.
From James Robinson: Made in France in 1890, this gold bracelet, with a mark for Alphonse Fouquet, centers on a red jasper cameo depicting a satyr, who is most likely Pan. It is set in a frame of pearls.
From James Robinson: These George V period earrings, made around 1915, are composed of Montana sapphires and pearls and mounted in platinum.
They were retailed by the London based company, Johnson, Walker and Tolhurst, which acquired claims in the Yogo Mine in Montana in 1896. Their section was known as the English Mine.
From Koopman Rare Art: A 2.90 carat pavé diamond bass fish Cartier brooch with inset painted eye.
Mid-20th century diamond fish brooches reflect the popularity of sport among society. Often, the jewels were commissioned to commemorate a special catch.
From Les Enluminures: Antique Diamond Cross
From Macklowe: Dating from the 1980s, this René Boivin bracelet is a tapered design of sapphire, pink tourmaline, perdiot and amethyst connected in a fully flexible network of gold gold links.
From Macklowe: An Art Nouveau masterpiece by René Lalique, the 1897 Iris bracelet is composed of opals, enamel and gold.
Beautifully described on Macklowe’s website, the listing includes all the books and exhibitions where the bracelet has been reviewed and exhibited.
While this jewel alone could practically be the subject of a book, if not a lecture, in short, my favorite part about it is the expression of the irises on the design. They are infused with emotion and draw you into the piece.
From Simon Teakle: A signature style from Cartier’s mid-20th century work, the carved lapis ring generally features diamonds but this jewel has yellow sapphires.
From Simon Teakle: Mid-20th century diamond clips
From Simon Teakle: An antique diamond panel ring made around 1830 with an open scroll shank composed of silver and gold.
From Wartski: An English aquamarine and diamond brooch made around 1910.
Presented in its original tooled red leather case, the lid satin stamped ‘Garrard & Co Ltd, Goldsmiths and Jewellers, &c. TO THE KING, By Special Appointment TO THE CROWN, 24 Albemarle St, W.’
Related Stories:
The Fascinating Double Life of Georges Fouquet
At Auction: Iconoclastic 20th Century Jewels
Historic Diamond Jewel Shatters Estimate at Sotheby’s
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