As the Olympics come to an end with the closing ceremony in Rio this evening, The Adventurine’s steady coverage of Brazilian jewelry designers concludes with Fernando Jorge’s Bloom. It is the wunderkind’s jeweled poem to his nation. Although the designer relocated several years ago to London for an MA at the esteemed Central Saint Martins and then stayed in the city to launch his line in 2010, his soulful style remains Brazilian.
What does it mean to be a Brazilian designer? For The Adventurine story recapping the six talents from the nation covered during the course of the Games, Fernando explained the thread that ties the jewelry aesthetic together, “We live surrounded by exuberant nature and have year round warm temperatures—it’s a body conscious and expressive society. I think the aesthetic response to that is the free flowing sensual lines that have become a signature of Brazilian style.” He went on to add “I moved to London to study, but not to distance myself from this experience, quite the opposite. I wanted to refine what I had learned instinctively and design jewelry with a very personal feel. Turns out I’m Brazilian and these cultural references are an intrinsic part of my work and my approach to jewelry.”
Among all the beautiful jewelry Fernando has created none has had as strong a link to his homeland as Bloom (that can be seen in the slideshow above). Many of the gems are native to Brazil. It is being produced in a dazzling combination of state-of-the-arts digital technology and traditional hand finishing conducted in the jewelry center of São Paulo. The theme of Bloom celebrates Brazil’s natural wonders in an imaginative way. Designs are not literal flowers, butterflies and birds but they celebrate the essence of these sources of inspiration. For example, the ring inspired by the Morpho butterfly has pear-shape gems floating over the finger forming the silhouette of the insect. In a pair of earrings, gems extend like petals of a Brazilian Bromelia flower up and around the earlobe. The shape of the Orchidea flower is outlined by stones in a pair of pendant earrings. Pear-shape stones in descending sizes define the electric blue feathers on tips of the wingspan of the Brazilian macaw.
The statement pieces in the collection, introduced during July 2016 Couture week in Paris are all one-of-a-kind. For Fall, Fernando transformed the work into 15 ready to wear jewels that have lines of gold and just a few gems but maintain that appealing sensual line of Brazilian design.